Porto, Portugal and Port wines are inextricably linked. Port, a fortified wine is made from wines grown in the Douro Valley in the North of Portugal.
While in Portugal, exploring the local and authentic dishes, we could not miss Port wines. Our quest took us from Lisbon to Porto (Oporto in English), Portugal’s second largest city, to explore this famous wine.
For context, we are novice port drinkers. Besides red ruby port, which we occasionally had growing up, we didn’t know much more.
While in Porto, we took port wine tours, visited wineries, sampled port at wine tastings, all aimed at uncovering the magic of this world famous drink.
Join us for a fascinating discovery of port and port tasting in Porto, Portugal.
Learning About Port Wines at the Port Wine Institute
Dedicated to the important role of Port wine in the city and beyond, the Douro and Porto Wine Institute (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto) is a great place to start your exploration.
Museum entrance at Porto Wine InstituteThe institute features a small museum with a detailed exhibition about how Port wines are made. Starting with the grapes used to the different varieties and colors of port wines, this is wonderful introduction to Port wines.
The different shades of Port WinesThe Different Port Wines
There is a lot to Port wines, and we are certainly not experts. Here is a brief primer of the four main categories and subcategories of Port wines.
Ruby Ports, are named for their distinct ruby color. These are young, approachable wines with fresh, fruit-filled aromas. Within this category, you have Ruby Reserve, Late Bottle Vintage or LBV and Vintage Port.
Tawny Ports, are typically a blend of older vintage wines. These ports spend more time in oak barrels and the colors range from ruby red to more ruby-orange or “brick red,” as they mature. In this group, you’ll find 10, 20, 30 or 40 Year Tawny Ports. One delicious Tawny we enjoyed was the Colheita. This is a Tawny from a single vintage.
White Ports, are made from white grapes and come in made in very dry to semi-sweet styles. The wine is typically fruity and often used to make the popular Port Tonic, which is “Port and Tonic” on the rocks.
Rosé Port, is one of the lightest Port wines and like White Port, it is a younger Port. It made from red grapes which undergo a light maceration to keep the color, tannins, and flavors. It can also be used in cocktails.
For an in-depth guide to Port, get the book Port Wines, Rich, Rare & Red: A Guide to Port by Ben Hawkins.
Porto Tasting at the Port Wine Institute
No visit would be complete without a wine tasting of port wines. As such, the institute offers tastings of different varieties of port wines.
For a small fee of €1.50 euros, in unique port wine glasses, you can sample high-quality Ruby, Tawny’s, Reserve and Vintage ports wines. This is actually where we tasted some of our best Port wines.
If you’re lucky enough to go there on a Thursday evening, the institute’s port maker will whip you up a port cocktail.
Pick and choose port wines for tastings A Little More About Port Wines and How Is It Made
Port is wine, made exclusively in Portugal’s Douro Valley and is heavily regulated by the Port Wine Institute. The grapes used are native to Portugal and include red grapes such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, and Tinto Cão.
Like any red wine, Port starts out the same. The grapes are crushed and fermented. Then the yeast converts the grapes’ natural sugar into alcohol. With port, however, aguardente (sometimes referred to as “brandy”) is added to the red wine. This stops the fermentation process and increases the alcohol content to about 20%.
For more about Port, check out this fascinating article, the 10 minute guide to Port, which goes into more detail about this famous fortified wine.
Aguardente for drinking, also known as "burning water"Visiting the Port Lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia
Vila Nova de Gaia situated across the Douro River from Porto is the home of the historic Port lodges and wine producers. You’ll find more than 60 port wine lodges.
Despite its name, Port wines are not housed in Porto but in Vila Nova de Gaia, commonly referred to “Gaia” by locals.
The reason the port wines are found in Gaia is due to an interesting twist between religion and politics. Story has it that in the 13th century, the church was the only institution to benefit from taxes on trade in Porto. The King then gave authorization to Port Wines makers to escape this tax by moving across the Douro River to Vila Nova de Gaia instead. This was much to the dismay of the church.
Vila Nova de Gaia is also an ideal location for aging port wines. The climate on the north bank of the river is milder, providing better conditions to store the port in the cellars.
From Porto, walk across the magnificent Dom Luis I iron bridge on the upper deck reserved for pedestrian and tramways. You will enjoy the amazing views of the Douro river, Gaia, and Porto.
Here are a few wine lodges to consider for a Port cellar visit and wine tastings.
Riverfront in Gaia with views of PortoThe Oldest Port House – Real Companhia Velha
Real Companhia Velha is the oldest wine company in Portugal. It was founded by the King and the Prime Minister, Marques de Pombal, back in 1756. It is located further away from the river and tourist attractions in Gaia and offers intimate tours and wine tasting experiences.
When we visited, we were the only ones on the tour. The visit began with a brief video introducing the company and the Douro Valley region, where port wines grapes are grown.
Our knowledgeable guide walked us to the cellars where their Port wines are aged in large and medium barrels.
Grapes come from the Douro Valley where the company owns several wine estates or “Quintas” (in Portuguese).
In the cellars you’ll find a large portrait of the King and the Prime Minister as a reminder of their heritage. The cellars are now family-owned by Portuguese proprietors.
Large vats for aging the Port winesReal Companhia Velha Port Tasting
The visit ended with the tastings of a Lagrima Porto and a Tawny Porto.
The Lagrima is known to be the sweetest of the white porto wines. Its name, “Lagrima” means tears, referring to the tear shape it forms while being poured into a glass. The consistency is slightly thick and the taste really sweet. It’s a great wine to have chilled as an aperitif or as a dessert wine.
The Tawny Porto is aged for four years in oak barrels. While strong, it has dried fruit and nutty flavors. This Tawny Porto is most commonly drunk as a digestive or over a dessert at room temperature.
This was our first visit to a port cellar and it made for a friendly and approachable introduction to port wines cellars and the production process.
A Lagrima and Tawny Porto for tastingThe Most Accessible Port House on the Douro River – Cálem
Cálem, located right across the Douro river is a popular destination for visitors. Cálem offers well organized tours for a maximum of 40 people, in different languages. Don’t expect an intimate tour experience here.
However, Cálem has a small and interactive museum that details the Port wine making process. It is worth spending time here before the tour starts.
On the tour, the guide walked the group through the wine cellars and using video and audio support, recreated the wine making experience. This was very well done and worked even for a large group. The final stop was the vast tasting room near the cellars.
Interactive display at the museumCálem Port Tasting
In the large tasting room, glasses and bottles were laid out on a large table to accommodate our group of about 25 people. We tasted two different Cálem Ports. A Fine White Porto and a Tawny Porto Special Reserve.
The Fine White Porto was smooth and sweet though not as sweet as the Lagrima Port. This is the kind of wine that goes well with fruit-based desserts.
The Tawny Porto, on the other hand, was strong and tasted closer to a cognac with a much higher level of sweetness.
Tasting Fine white Port and Tawny Reserve at CalemEspaco Porto Cruz for an Interactive Port Experience
The Port Cruz Space in Gaia is a multimedia center that offers different ways to experience Port wines and the region. Through a combination of art and interactive presentations, this is a great place to introduce visitors to the wines and region.
In the tasting area on the first floor, you can sample different Port wines and pair them with cheese or charcuterie. The second floor has a fantastic 360 virtual reality tour of the Douro Valley and as well as a variety of audiovisual resources. There is also an art exhibition space as well as a tasting room.
The Porto Cruz Space also has a restaurant that is only open for lunch in the Summer months. On the rooftop deck, you can enjoy amazing views of Porto and the Douro River while having lunch or enjoying drinks and snacks in the afternoon.
Experiencing the 360 virtual reality tour at Porto Cruz SpacePorto Cruz Port Tasting
After visiting the second floor, we made our way back down to taste a Porto Rosé and a Porto Tawny. The Rosé was round, sweet and fruity, making it an easy wine to drink. The Porto Tawny was full bodied, with notes of berry and plum fruits. It is said to be best served slightly chilled and with rich desserts.
A surprising Rosé Port and Tawny for tastingDouro Valley – Where the Grapes Come From
After exploring the wine cellars and tasting rooms in Gaia and Porto, we went further north to the Douro Valley, to see the vineyards that produce this famous Port wine.
A Unesco World Heritage Site, Douro Valley, is the first demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. In addition to Port wines, this spectacular region also produces excellent DOC Douro Valley wines.
The Douro river, which translates in Portuguese as “of gold”, was used traditionally to transport port wine produced from Douro Valley to the cellars in Porto. Even though the river is not used for transporting wines today, taking a river cruise is a magnificent way to experience the valley.
There are many offers for cruises in Porto. You can easily find a good last minute deal to cruise and explore the quaint towns in the Douro Valley region.
While in the valley, we visited two port wineries to learn more about the making of this fortified wine.
A beautiful view of the Douro river and vineyardsBreathtaking Views at Quinta do Seixo – Sandeman
Our first stop was at Sandeman’s Quinta do Seixo vineyard. While Sanderman does have a cellar in Gaia, it is currently closed for renovations.
George Sandeman, a young Scott, founded the company in 1790. This ancient property is spread out over 99 hectares of vineyard.
A pioneer, Sandeman is the first wine company to mark its name on a cask with a hot iron rod. It is also one of the first wine companies to label and advertise its wines.
Today, Sandeman is recognized for the quality of their wines and the distinctive image of the “Sandeman Don”.
Sandeman wine estate Our tour guide, dressed as the “Sandeman Don” took us around the cellars.
You can see the production process that was used centuries ago and the new machinery that is used today.
Their Port wines are aged in Gaia, where the climate is better suited for aging the wines.
The final stop was the tasting room with magnificent views overlooking the Douro Valley.
Our guide as a Sandeman Don at the tastingSandeman – Quinta do Seixo Port Tasting
The tasting included two different Port wines. A White Port wine usually drunk as an aperitif and a Ruby Port, which is typically consumed as a digestif.
We started out with a medium dry white port – Fine White Port, aged for 3 years in oak barrels. Sweet and delicious, the flavors are tropical with hints of citrus.
White Port is commonly used in the Porto Tonic cocktail, which is particularly refreshing in the hot Summer months. Porto Tonic is made by mixing half white port, half tonic water, two cubes of ice and a slice of lemon.
For the Ruby Port wine, we tasted a Founders Reserve, aged for five years in oak barrels. With red fruit aromas and chocolate notes, this digestif port wine pairs well with chocolates, red fruits desserts, and cheese.
This was a fascinating tour of one of the most recognizable Port brands in the world. The overall experience and particularly the tasting room makes this a vineyard worth visiting. We finished our visit leisurely sipping the port wines while admiring the magnificent views of the Douro Valley.
Tasting at Sandeman with magnificent viewsBoutique Organic Winery – Quinta do Tedo
Located where the Douro and Tedo rivers meet, Quinta do Tedo is a small boutique winery. The property dates back to the 18th century.
It is now co-owned by a Frenchman (of the Bouchard family winemaker in Burgundy), his American wife and a Portuguese winemaker.
This vineyard is fascinating for a number of reasons. First, it is an organic vineyard for both port and red wines. The vineyard started growing organic grapes in 2007. 2011 was their first completely organic harvest.
The vineyard also features a small agrotourism B&B where you can stay and explore the region.
View of the Tedo River from the wineryThis small 14-hectare winery produces 26 different grape varieties and still uses many traditional winemaking processes.
The grapes are harvested by hand, and after destemming, they are crushed by foot. The stomping of grapes process is done by 4 to 6 workers and takes place at night, to control the temperatures in large stone tanks called lagares.
In the oldest part of the winery, we saw the large barrels used for port wines, as well as the wine label bottling process which takes place by hand.
The cellars at Quinta do TedoQuinta do Tedo Port Tasting
For the first time, we got a chance to taste organic port wines. The tasting included three port wines. We started out with a Rosé port, which is the lightest of the port wines. This was Rosemary’s favorite. We learned that Rosé port wines are typically drunk chilled and can also be used in sangria or for Porto Tonic cocktail with cinnamon or mint leaves.
The next tasting was an 8-year-old Tawny Porto. Much more complex with fig, peach flavors and caramel notes towards the end. We both enjoyed this Port wine.
The final tasting was a 2011 Quinta do Tedo LBV. It was delicious, slightly fruity with fresh acidity, making it perfectly balanced. This was Claire’s favorite of the three port wines.
Port wines at Quinta do Tedo tastingIn Summary
Learning about Port wines was a completely novel experience. We arrived in Porto as complete Port wine beginners and left with a greater regard for this fortified wine.
Through the port tasting, we had a chance to discover the different types of ports offered in the region. It was amazing to see the differences in colors and the nuances in taste.
Our favorite discoveries were Rosé and White Ports. We also gained a deeper appreciation for aged port wines such as the LBV or 10 year Tawny, which offer more balance and complex aromas.
Port wines offer many endless learning opportunities. We just barely scratched the surface.
Regardless of how much you know about port wines, a visit to Porto and the Douro Valley should not be missed.
Have you had Port wine before? Do you like it? Leave your comments below.
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Locations Mentioned
Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto
Address: Rua de Ferreira Borges 27, Porto.
Hours: Monday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm
Address: Rua Azevedo Magalhãe 314, Vila Nova de Gaia.
Tours: Offered by appointment only and in multiple languages.
Address: Av. de Diogo Leite 344, Vila Nova de Gaia.
Tours: Book in advance. Tour and Fado show available in the evenings at 6:00 pm.
Address: Largo Miguel Bombarda 23, Vila Nova de Gaia.
Tours: Great place for learning about Port wines, through videos, interactive tables and a tasting room. Enjoy the views of Porto from their amazing terrace.
Address: Tabuaço, Douro Valley.
Tours: Book your tour in advance and be prepared to relish the astonishing views of the Douro Valley.
Address: Folgosa, Douro Valley.
Tours: Great tour and amazing opportunity to taste organic Port wines.
Where to Stay in Porto, Portugal
Porto is a walkable city with several lodging options. From five star hotels to independent boutique hotels, whatever your preference you will find the perfect accommodations for your trip. Click below and choose from the hundreds of options available.
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Rosemary is a writer and culinary explorer. Together with her partner, Claire, they created Authentic Food Quest to inspire people to travel deeper through authentic food. Through food, they believe, people can have more meaningful connections on their travels. Prior to creating Authentic Food Quest, Rosemary worked as a director of strategy in advertising for over 15 years. Take the quiz and find out your Food Traveler Profile.
Hi! Welcome to Authentic Food Quest. We are Claire and Rosemary. Our goal is to invite you to explore the local flavors on your travels. Follow our quest for authentic foods from around the world.
Interesting, I had no idea rose and white ports were a thing! My only experience with port has been the ruby ports, which I don’t like so much. Getting out to the Douro Valley seems like the ideal way to get familiar with these wines though — those views are spectacular!
Thanks Carrie. Discovering White and Rose ports were also very new for us. Indeed the Douro Valley is incredible and worth visiting at some point. Cheers
There’s nothing like a nice glass of port to sip on in front of a fire on a cold winter’s night. I remember the fuss some years ago when other countries were forced to rename their “port” wines. Now I understand why. I would love to try the Fine White Porto from Cálem Ports.
Sounds like you are a port fan!! In Portugal, port is consumed all the time – aperitif, with dessert and also after dinner. Anytime is a good time for Port wines. If you have a chance to visit Porto, a trip to Calem is highly recommended!! Thanks for stopping by.
I have only tried Port Wine a few times, but I think going to the source like you did would be great. I love that you went to the museum and learned all about it first, then visited the wine lodges. The museum at Calem looks nice. The tour group seems too large for my tastes, but it sounds like they still did a good job. Your trip took you full circle all the way to the beginning of the process, which is cool. The “Sandeman Don” dressed guide was a nice touch. Great experience and article.
So glad you enjoyed the article Chris. For port novices like ourselves, we found the best way to explore this famous drink was by approaching it from the different perspectives. We certainly gained a richer appreciation for Port, but we do find too strong! Thanks for stopping by.
Porto is really famous for its wines and a wine tour sounds ideal! I love rose wines and I prefer them with almost every meal. I would also love to try Lagrima because I also like sweet wines as dessert. The 360 degree virtual tour of the valley seems also really unique!
Ahhh, the Lagrima…delicate but sweet. Look for it the next time you are buying dessert wines and be prepared for an unforgettable experience.
I’m not aware that Portugal has its own vineyards. I thought that France is the only European country that grows grapes. I like that view of the sloped vineyards along Tedo River. As a teetotaller, I can’t comment on your experience, sorry.
Thanks for stopping by, even as a teetotaller 🙂 You will find vineyards all over the world and Portugal does have oldest demarcated vineyards in the world.
I have not tried Port wine before and did not know how it is made. Thanks for the explanation and links. I did not know that there were so many varieties. I think I’d like to tour the port winemakers in the region of Portugal where you visited.
Like you Rhonda, we didn’t know much about Port wines before. Glad you liked learning through our experience. Visiting the winemakers was really fascinating and a great way to understand how port is made! Thanks for stopping by.
I feel wiser after reading your article – honestly I never figured that Port wine was from Porto. Neat articles with lots of explanation, thanks for that! Now I am wine professional!
You are most welcome Veronika. So glad you enjoyed the article. The next step now is to taste some port wines 🙂
My parents are big port drinkers, and Porto is high on their list. They raved about the port on a recent Europe river cruise, though I don’t believe they took Portugal in. The Douro and Porto Wine Institute sounds like a great place to start a port journey here. It’s fabulous that the experience goes beyond tasting and you can actually learn about the history, cultural significance and how it’s made. And it sounds like some of the port houses are very interactive! Will definitely have to visit a couple of cellar doors. I’m a port beginner too, but I like the sound of Rose port at Quinta do Tedo – will make a note, thanks!
Your parents would love a trip focused on Port wines in Porto! Many of the port wines are not available outside of Portugal and the selection is quite diverse. As novice port drinkers, we were amazed. Indeed for a unique and boutique experience, Quinta do Tedo is a must visit. Appreciate you stopping by, Meg.
I am a teetotaler still loved to read so much info on Porto. Colour of port tells how seriously wine making is taken by people of North Portugal. You have really enriched me with so much knowledge on Calem port, Lagrima Porto, Real Companhia Velha which was founded by king. Could you tell me why brandy is known as Buring Water?
Thank you and so glad you were able to appreciate learning more about Port wines, even as a teetotaler! The brandy is known as Burning Water because of the strength of the alcohol level. We’re talking seriously strong stuff 🙂 Thanks for stopping by.
Wow, you guys sure did a lot of research! Must have been tough! 😉 I’m glad you did though, because I didn’t really know anything about port wine or that there were different kinds. I can’t wait to visit Portugal and do some wine tasting myself.
Thanks, Vicki, indeed a great “research project” to work on. But, seriously as the most famous drink from Portugal, we had to explore this drink on our quest for authentic food. This was a truly fascinating journey 🙂
Girls, I’m so envious to you right now. Been to the gym and decided not to go out. This post is not doing me any favours =D I’d love a glass of port wine right now!
Cheers, Anna! Go work out and then treat yourself to a glass of port wine 🙂
Well this was a fun post into “portland” I love a good port wine and I enjoyed reading this post. Beth
Thank so much Beth and glad you enjoyed reading the article 🙂
I’d like to consider myself very knowledgeable about French wines (I live in Paris), but I’m totally lost when it comes to Port. Actually, the wine is one of the main reasons I want to visit Portugal. Sad to say I’ve never been. After reading this post, I won’t look like a total novice when sipping on my first Port in Porto.
As a wine drinker, Portugal also has amazing wines. We’ll be covering the wines in a future article. I would highly recommend visiting the Duoro Valley for their incredible red wines 🙂
This looks like the perfect spot for a port tasting. Before reading your post, I didn’t knew there were so many different types of Port! Thanks for the information!
You are most welcome. We didn’t realize there was so much to Port wines, either. Glad you enjoyed the article.
My Uncle lives in Portugal and is always bringing the family Wonderful Port to try when he returns home, I’d sure love to go wine tasting where its actually made though! This is great detailed post that I’ll return to for my next trip to the region 🙂
What a fun uncle who brings you the best of Porto. Do you have a favorite port wine? Glad you enjoyed the article and happy tasting on your next trip to the region.
Super interesting! I didn’t know much about port but I didn’t think that there would be white and rose ports. I’ve never been to Portugal, but I now will be after reading about these amazing drinks!
So glad you enjoyed the article, Sara. We didn’t know much about Port either and were pleased to discover the white and rose port wines. Thanks for stopping by.
I’m allergic to wine (particularly the sulfites in them) and it’s the saddest thing! I visited Porto and wasn’t able to indulge in Port Wine. But I really enjoyed reading this article! I learned a lot about the different varieties which all look delicious.
So glad you enjoyed the article though. Thanks for stopping by.
I really enjoy a good port, especially the deep red ones. This was such a thorough guide to tasting the others! I had no idea that there were white ports as well!
Glad this article resonated with you as a port wine drinker. Indeed, we were just as surprised to discover Rose and White ports as well. Thanks for stopping by 🙂
Hello Rosemary,
This is really very amazing and nice article and I really thanks to you for sharing this enjoyable moment.
Regards,
Kristi
You are most welcome Kristi. So glad you enjoyed the article and discovering more about Port wines in Porto, Portugal!